Friday, January 23, 2015

An American blogger in Paris, part two

See part one!

Honestly, it's been so long that I'm probably mixing up some of the order of what all we did. And I haven't even talked about our first Parisian dinner! How did I forget that?

Tyler and I visited Au Pied du Sacré Coeur twice during our visit because it was so nice. We wandered into this little restaurant around 9 our first night, hungry and a little out of our element. We'd already had some trouble with credit cards and the Metro and we just wanted something nice to eat, served by nice people. Au Pied far exceeded our expectations - the servers were so kind and patient with us; I know a little French but Tyler knows none, and they didn't seem the least bit exasperated by that. The prices were reasonable, and the plates were huge and filled with all kinds of tasty things. I had the duck and it was mouthwateringly good. The wine was also splendid and inexpensive. If you're ever near Montmartre and you want to have a good meal served by friendly people, this is the place.

Anyway, one of the days it rained, and rained, and RAINED. It wasn't Seattle rain; it was hard, soak-you-to-the-bone-in-minutes rain. We occasionally took shelter in cafes, but we couldn't eat the whole day, so we mostly just accepted our soggy fates.

Left: Even the statues were miserable. Right: Tyler and I visited a restaurant specializing in buckwheat crepes and hard cider.

French nerds DO exist!

The celebrated Pierre Hermé pâtisserie. (Tyler's shirt is different because we had to go home and change out of our sopping wet clothes.)
Eventually we gave up and went home to watch "The Talented Mr. Ripley" with French subtitles. The next day was much better, and we explored the Canal St-Martin and Belleville neighborhoods.

If you've seen "Amelie," I believe this is where she frees her goldfish as a child.

We thought this was funny because it was a sugar cube. Get it? Sugar Daddy. (This was the only cafe where the waitress lived up to the rude Parisian stereotype.)

A view walking up to the Parc de Belleville. 

View from the Parc de Belleville.

Then we took our Pierre Hermé macarons to Père Lachaise Cemetery to eat atop a tombstone, a tradition Taite and I began on our visit in 2011. The contrast of death with a colorful (and delicious) celebration of life is one that tickles me.

As we explored, we took the opportunity to tease the residents. "Death, be not proud, though some have called thee mighty and dreadful, for thou art not so; for those whom thou think'st thou dost overthrow will frolic through graveyards.."

I tried to copy this guy's casually cool reclining pose and failed miserably. 
Got your nose! But I gave it back just in case, so he wouldn't curse me.
They seemed displeased by our pesky insouciance.

We stayed so long that we missed the optimal time to visit the Catacombs; by the time we got there, the line was terribly long. So we gave up on that and just walked around instead.

"I don't want to be your friend on Facebook."

The beautiful Place des Vosges

We took a quick stroll over to Ile de la Cité to visit Notre-Dame (just the outside) and eat ice cream.
On our last day in Paris, we collected an assortment of treasures for family members and fancy vacuum-packed cheeses. On our last night in Paris, we watched the sun set behind the Eiffel Tower and snuggled on the grass as the lights twinkled.

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