Thursday, September 19, 2013

Iceland Day 5: Northeast and East Iceland

Day 1: Reykjavik
Day 2: Reykjavik
Day 2 Continued: Reykjadalur
Day 3: Snaefellsness
Day 4: Akureyri & Myvatn
Day 4 Continued: Myvatn & Dettifoss

We had a fitful night's sleep in our tent, mostly because we'd foolishly made camp on a hill and kept slipping down in our sleeping bags. But the next day was fresh and sunny and we were excited to get back on the road toward Hofn, a small town on the eastern coast about three hours from Egilsstadir.

Do you know what's awesome about northeastern Iceland, particularly in the mountains? There's almost no one there but sheep!

And they almost always travel in threes! What's up with that?

At one point in our journey, we came upon a fork. To the left, a paved road that would wind along the fjords. To the right, a step gravel road that led down the mountain. That was the faster route to Hofn, and the more adventurous to our eyes, so we took it. It turned out to be one of the best decisions of our trip.

The road was bumpy, but the views were beautiful. We found hills with ridges that looked like lava flowing down into the fjords below.

Once we got down into the fjords, the drive wasn't nearly as interesting. We were so sleepy that the repetition of the winding roads and ocean view actually forced us to pull over and take a nap! But eventually we did make it to Hofn (which is pronounced "Herpn" according to Wikipedia, and like a hiccup, according to our travel book.. we had a lot of fun making exaggerated hiccuping sounds whenever we said its name) - and to Humarhofnin, a restaurant specializing in lobster. I love lobster. I LOVE lobster.

Left: The interior of Humarhofnin; right: Tyler contemplates the delicious lunch options.

Tyler went with a lobster and kalamata olive pizza, which was divine. I... I ordered an ENTIRE BOWL OF LOBSTERS.

These aren't your giant Maine lobsters, obviously, but they are succulent and flavorful, and these were absolutely drowned in buttery sauces.

After lunch, we took a walk, and Tyler worked off some of his meal.

I watched.

Then we got back in the car and headed south, toward those mountains in the distance.

On the way, two exciting things happened:
1. A tour bus in front of us hit the mirror of a tour bus coming the other way, and shattered glass and plastic showered on our car. Thanks to Tyler's quick reflexes, we remained otherwise unscathed.
2. I hoped out loud that I would see a reindeer soon, and not fifteen minutes later, I SAW ONE.

We were so happy that my mom had loaned us her binoculars, as there was a barbed wire fence and a few hundred yards separating us from the reindeer.

Just past the reindeer, we saw this:

And then we were plunged into a dense, icy fog. We couldn't hardly see a thing but the road for several minutes - and then, all of a sudden, we burst out of the fog and Jokulsarlon, the Glacial Lagoon, was right in front of us.

Gaaahhhhhh. Aaaahhhhhhhh. It's too cool. Too astoundingly beautiful. Isn't it just the most photogenic thing you've ever seen?

We gave it due reverence.

Tyler: "It's a piece of a thousand-year-old glacier. I'm gonna eat it. Duh."
When Tyler sees a pretty thing, his first impulse is to throw a rock at it.

And..makeout sesh!

We finally tore ourselves away, only to find another gorgeous glacial lagoon. Just couldn't get away from them! Iceland is lousy with glacial lagoons. They're actually so common that we quickly got sick of them.

That is a huge lie. Glacial lagoons are majestic as fuck.

We saw some other stuff that day, but you know. Really old farm walls and sod churches can't really compare to the prettiest damn thing I've ever seen.

..I'm lying again. It was all great. ICELAND IS GREAT.

The last views of the day were Kirkjugolf, naturally occurring basalt columns that were once mistaken for an old church floor (because they're in an awesome, almost uniform honeycomb pattern); and Fjadrargljufur (try, just TRY to pronounce it, I dare you!), a two million-year-old canyon.

What a full and fabulous day. We camped overnight in Vik - more on that when Day 6 comes around!

Go to Day 6: Vik to Reykjavik


  1. I love these posts! I'm in the middle of blogging about my trip to Iceland, too! (

    1. Thank you! I can't wait to read yours. :)


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